Close to Home, Far from Ordinary: Golfing in South Limburg

Limburg does not feel like the Netherlands. The hills, the valleys, the winding roads through forest and farmland, and the unmistakable influence of Belgium and Germany just across the border give it a character that is genuinely its own. Add Maastricht to the mix, a city several of us once called home during our student years, and you have all the ingredients for a trip that feels like going abroad without leaving the country.

We based ourselves at Dormio Resort Maastricht, in the Dousberg area on the edge of the city. It sits right next to International Golf Maastricht, which we did not play this time around. That course carries a solid 7.8 on Leading Courses and scores particularly well for hospitality, and it has a fun quirk: the layout straddles the Dutch and Belgian border, so you technically play in 2 countries in a single round. Worth keeping in mind if you want to add a 4th course to the itinerary. From the resort, the centre of Maastricht is a taxi ride away, which we made good use of more than once.

Our first course was Rijk van Margraten, in the hilly landscape near Cadier en Keer, about 8 kilometres from Maastricht. It was designed by Alan Rijks, known for The Duke, the Het Rijk courses and De Texelse, and offers several beautiful sightlines towards Maastricht. It is a parkland course with a distinctly hilly character. The front 9 are relatively open, with wide views stretching towards the city. The back 9 feel more sheltered, tucked between woodland and gently rolling terrain.

We were warmly welcomed at the first tee by the caddymaster. That opening hole sets the tone immediately: a short par 3 with a stunning view over Maastricht. The course is well maintained throughout, with greens in good condition and a layout that keeps things interesting. The hills give it an immediate holiday feel, which is exactly what you want on a trip like this.

The course plays fairly friendly. Slices and hooks are rarely punished severely, as there is generally enough room to recover. The par 3s, however, are the exception. All of them are well designed and none of them are easy. The longer holes are where you will find your birdie opportunities.

Off the course the facilities are solid: a good driving range, a short par 3 course for warming up, and a cold beer with snacks after the round. A good start to the trip, and a gentle introduction to what Limburg golf has to offer.

The drive to Wittem from Maastricht is worth mentioning in itself. You pass through Cadier en Keer, Margraten and Gulpen, climb onto the plateau of the Gulpenerberg, and then follow a winding forest road until the clubhouse finally appears. The setting is idyllic and tucked away, and the long private approach road is reminiscent of the entrance to Utrechtse Golf Club De Pan. The clubhouse blends old and new, with a beautiful fireplace as its centrepiece. The welcome was warm and the green fee came with Limburgse vlaai and coffee. That tells you something about the place.

Wittem is a true members' club, the oldest in Limburg, founded in 1956 and designed by Hawtree. No tee time system for members, no fuss. Golfers who play a lot of courses tend to favour it over Margraten for its character, history and the way it sits naturally within the landscape. If you appreciate courses like De Pan, Eindhovensche or Rosendaelsche, Wittem belongs in that same conversation.

The front 9 features tight, technical woodland holes that demand accurate positioning. The back 9 opens up more, where wind and elevation changes come into play. Despite some greens and fairways sitting deep in the forest, conditioning throughout was excellent. Position off the tee matters here, and the par 3s are among the strongest on the trip.

For me personally, as someone who loves traditional woodland courses, Wittem was the clear highlight. The routing is varied, the longer holes are genuinely memorable, and the course walks well. And despite being the highest situated course in the Netherlands, it is actually less hilly than Margraten. If you are playing 1 course in Limburg, make it Wittem.

Our final course was Les Viviers, the championship layout at Golf & Hotel Henri-Chapelle, just across the Belgian border near Aachen and Vaals. The complex offers 45 holes across 3 courses and is one of the largest golf facilities in Belgium. The on-site hotel and sweeping views towards the Ardennes, the High Fens and the German Eifel make it a natural base for a longer golf trip.

Les Viviers is the most physically demanding of the 3, and the most dramatic. Walking it requires a reasonable level of fitness, there are some serious climbs. A word of practical advice: bring euro coins for the driving range ball machine, as contactless payment is not available there.

The course is not inherently punishing, as there is usually room enough off the tee, but directional markers on several blind holes would help considerably. The number of doglegs feels 1 too many, and the hole information boards, though well intentioned, left our group debating the correct line for most of the round. Maintenance showed some gaps: weedy tee boxes and signs of fungal damage on a few greens, a consequence of the shift away from chemical treatments that the manager himself acknowledged.

That said, for Dutch golfers this is a genuinely spectacular experience. Dramatic elevation changes, outstanding views and holes that feel unlike anything at home. Recommended for golfers with a handicap below 20: the par 4s and 5s are long and often play uphill, so a solid drive and a confident fairway wood are not optional. Higher handicappers are welcome, but choose your tee box wisely.

Several of us studied in Maastricht, myself included, so returning always feels like coming home. The Onze Lieve Vrouwenplein is as beautiful as ever, the Amorsplein buzzes with life, and the Vrijthof remains iconic with the Sint-Servaaskerk and Sint-Janstoren anchoring the square. There is no shortage of bars and restaurants to keep you going well into the night. Which we confirmed, thoroughly.

After a few days in the hills and a few late evenings in the city, it was clear this trip had delivered everything a good golf trip should. Limburg's landscape and the warmth of Maastricht give it a character that feels distinctly un-Dutch, in the best possible way. The courses we played were genuinely good, each with its own personality: Margraten as a friendly and scenic opener, Wittem as the character rich highlight, Henri-Chapelle as the dramatic and demanding finale across the border.

It left us wanting more. Which, for a golf trip, is exactly the right outcome.

If you are extending your trip or planning a return visit, the wider region has more to offer than most golfers realise. 3 courses in particular deserve a mention.

De Herkenbosche, just outside Roermond in the northern part of Limburg, is one of the finest woodland courses in the Netherlands. Rated 8.4 on Leading Courses, it is the kind of course that rewards careful play and stays with you long after the round. If Wittem sparked something for you, Herkenbosche is the logical next step.

Royal Limburg Golf sits in Belgium above Genk, to the northwest of Maastricht, and is a different proposition entirely: a heathland course with the open, exposed character that links golfers tend to love. At 8.6 on Leading Courses it is one of the highest rated courses in the region and well worth crossing the border for.

Royal Golf Club Sart Tilman lies just south of Liège and offers a traditional parkland and woodland layout that has been quietly impressing visiting golfers for decades. Rated 8.5 on Leading Courses, it is a classic that completes an impressive line-up in a region that deserves far more attention from golfers than it typically gets.

Limburg works as a long weekend or a full week, and everything we played sits within roughly half an hour of Maastricht. Autumn suits it particularly well: the woodland courses come into colour, the hills are at their best, and the tee sheets are quieter than in summer.

If you are tempted, hold your tee times early and book the rounds together. You pay nothing until the day you play.

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